Friday, 25 May 2012

Flower photography

I focused on the theme of flowers for my third assignment of this course.

A flower is a flower.  How do you shoot a flower?  How do you shoot an interesting picture of a flower? 

As part of my research I looked at the work of Robert Mapplethorpe and Imogen Cunningham.

Robert Mapplethorpe
I first came across Mapplethorpe in Graham Clarke's book The Photograph.  The book discusses the portraits of  Mapplethorpe and his exploration of portraiture from a homosexual perspective.  His self portrait series looks at themes like self-identity, sexuality and the public and private self

Having this as my first introduction to the artist, I was surprised to see his flowers series.  However, I must say that his delicate treatment of flowers was a refreshing change to the habitual macro shots you tend to see everywhere from flickr to discount print stores.  

I particularly liked the freshness of his work with flowers, the way in which his simple arrangements tends to give a greater air of importance to his subject.  His use of light is very effective and breathes life into the flowers.  


Imogen Cunningham
As my assignment was based on the creative effects of monochrome I found Cunningham's work highly relevant.  Her interest in botanical photography including her in depth study of the magnolia flower are very inspiring.  

The black and white medium definitely highlights the graphical qualities of shape, form and texture.  Her images are clutter free and with the use of light she brings out the textural characteristics of her subjects.  



Thursday, 24 May 2012

The Nature of Photographs




As part of this course I have visited a number of exhibitions.  From these visits I have identified a need to learn more about how to interpret and read photographs and pictures.  Stephen Shore’s The Nature of Photographs is a very useful book as it has helped me to interpret what I see in front of me when looking at images but has also introduced me to new ways of thinking about exactly what a photograph is. 

Although we often speak of capturing a moment with a camera, I never really thought too deeply about the process of transforming the world in front of us into a photograph until I read this book.  I never really thought so much of my learning on The Art of Photography course as learning how to use the tools that define and interpret content.  Instead I believe I thought of them as skills, but skills are a completely different concern when applied to photography.

Photographs are two dimensional whereas we see the world three dimensionally.  This monocular vision can throw up some frustrating results when shooting but can also provide some interesting outcomes.  For example, in some images the background can have an effect on the foreground.  I’ve lost count of the amount of times I have taken an image which looked fine at the time of shooting only to see that my subject has a tree growing out its head or similar.  Our eyes can distinguish between the foreground and the background but the camera can’t.  This is referred to as a product of photographic vision.

Photographs differ to paintings.  Shore refers to the photographer as being faced with the messiness of the world and imposing order on a scene to create an image.  Painting is very much the opposite.  As photographers it is our job to select and simplify the mess in front of us and transform it into a rectangular image.  This is done by choosing a frame, exposure, vantage point and a plane of focus. 

Shore writes about the visual language that we use when talking about photographs.  I found this section of the book very relevant to me and the stage at which I am at on my work. 

The Depictive level
The formal character of an image is a range of optical and physical factors which define the physical level of the photograph.  The four central ways in which the world in front of the camera is transformed into a photographic image are:
1.       Flatness. 
As I mentioned earlier photographs are monocular.  When we look at the picture plane (field the lens’ image is projected) we choose a variety of ways in which to add depth or the illusion of depth to our images.  For example, aperture – depth of field and shallow focus.  Some images are opaque and some are transparent.

2.       Frame
Photographs have edges whilst the world doesn’t.  These edges create relationships between the lines and shapes of the image.  The frame can be passive or active.  An active frame where the frame works inward and draws the viewer in.  Passive usually relates to the subject working out of the frame.

3.       Time
Not just shutter speed but more so the static nature of the photograph.  The world keeps moving but the camera provides a static image of this moving world. We can look at time under the headings of Frozen time, Extrusive time and still time.

4.       Focus
The camera sees monocularly from a particular vantage point.  It creates a hierarchy in the depictive space by defining a single plane of focus which is parallel to the picture.  The spatial hierarchy can be removed only by photographing a flat subject parallel to the picture plane.  This is why we get distortion in our images which is something we don’t see without eyes.

I have noticed that I see my pictures and the pictures of others differently since I invested in this book.  The next section in the book is the Mental level and I plan to move onto that shortly.  

Friday, 18 May 2012

Exercise: Colours into tones 2

The aim of this is to use channel adjustment to create a specific effect.

I chose a sheep in a field for this shot as this is the type of garden I grew up with.  I thought it would be interesting to move away from the stereotypical images of flowers for this shot.  The green is light in colour.

Original


Grayscale




Adjustments made to the yellow and green slider and the blacks slider to bring out more of the darks in the sheep.  I think the differences between the grayscale image and the conversion using the colour sliders is not as dramatic as I would have anticipated.  However, I do like the low key type effect and how the colour removed from the background makes the sheep stand out more.  


Exercise: Colours into tones 1

For this exercise I had to use an image that had strong contrasting colours and use the channel sliders in Photoshop to create two opposite versions of the image in black and white.

The original image had green and red as the contrasting colours.

Original image

For this image I darkened the greens and lightened the reds.  

In this image I did the reverse and lightened the greens and darkened the reds.  

These images demonstrate the effects of adjusting the contrasting colours for an extreme conversion.  

However, to look at the effects of extreme conversion I have also looked at the following images with the colours red and yellow. I think the effects can be seen more clearly with this composition and colour palette.

Original colour version

Decreased red and increased yellow

Darkened reds and lightened yellow

Exercise: Strength of interpretation

For this exercise I had to look at working with the tonal range.  I had to find 2 images that would suit the following:

  • A strong increase in contrast that will include clipping in at least the shadow areas.  
  • Low key or high key treatment in which the entire brightness range is shifted up or down. 
The first image is of the London Eye on a sunny day.  There is quite a lot of contrast in the image as it stands however when I apply an S-curve to the image the colour of the sky is not very pleasing.  It looks fake.  When converted to black and white it looks better as the colour is not an issue and the viewer can focus on the shape of the clouds which is otherwise overlooked by the bright colour.  

Original Image

S curve applied to the tone curve

Black and white

For the second image I chose a bike with passers-by in the city.  

Original

High key colour

High and white

Again the colour image is not very pleasing with the colours looking bleached out and weak.  However the black and white conversion which I preformed using a preset in Lightroom works well and places the emphasis and focus on the bike and couple walking by.  

The shape of the bike was very distinctive and the black and white conversion embraces this and accentuates the form and lines and movement in the image.  These are graphic qualities that are suitable for black and white conversions.  

I knew from experience that a black and white conversion of the London Eye would work too because of the clouds and the blueness of the sky.  Black and white tends to bring our the richness of the tones in skies like this.  Good black and white pictures nearly always have a pure white and a pure black.  

Exercise: Black and white

This exercise looks at shooting an image which you think would look better in black and white than colour.

I chose to shoot a tube station for this image.  I felt that from a geometric perspective this composition has lines, shape, volume and texture - all the elements that make a good black and white image.  I also felt that the colour in this shot was distracting especially the advertisements and the lighting.

I particularly like the way in which the viewer is drawn into the image and down the platform.



Original colour shot


Black and white conversion

Thinking and shooting a black and white image made me look for patterns and lines in my composition.  I also wanted something that had colour that didn't enhance it.
With regard to framing the shot I wanted the image to be transparent and I felt that this black and white version is more transparent and draws the reader in more.

The only issue I had with exposure here was increasing the ISO.  I am not a great lover of using high ISO especially in colour images but I felt that any noise introduced by a higher ISO would enhance the image and give it a more grainy and traditional effect.


Black and white

Black and white photography was the norm up until the introduction of colour film in 1960s and 1970s.  However, with the birth of digital photography and the endless possibilities that can be created in digital software, black and white has made a comeback recently.

The main difference between shooting in black and white film and digitally is that the eye has to translate the colour scene in front of it to black and white.  This had to happen at the moment of shooting or preparing for a shoot when using film.

Digital images are shot in colour and converted to black and white in post using software like Photoshop or Lightroom.  This leaves modern digital shooters with the problem of having to visually train themselves to be able to 'think' in black and white.  I have found this easy for some scenes but those high contrast and those with a busy composition are harder to see.

To convert images to black and white, software enables you to manipulate the RGB channels to fine tune the tones.

Why choose black and white?
Without colour the eye has to focus on the other qualities in the image.  These qualities can be referred to as the language of black and white photography and include the graphic qualities of proportion, texture, lines and form.

In looking at images that would be suitable for a black and white conversion we look for lines, shape and volume.  In Stephen Shore's book The Nature of Photographs he writes about colour and how it expands a photo's palette and adds a new descriptive level.  It also brings what he calls transparency to the image as colour is what we see with our eyes, not black and white.

So without colour images are dominated by tones and Ansel Adams Zone System sets out the 10 tonal zones for the ideal image.  Many photographers believe his system to be outdated in this digital age but I believe it still has relevance to today.  I have been reading Adams' book The Negative and I have found it very useful when considering black and white imagery.

This is the checklist that was provided in my course notes and I think it is very useful to have to hand when thinking about the differences in colour to black and white.

Black and white
Contrast
Key
Geometry
Volume
Texture
Colour into tone

Colour
Colour effect of exposure
Colour style
Colour relationship
Colour intensity


Thursday, 17 May 2012

Exercise: Interpretative processing

This exercise looks at personal taste instead of simply focussing on getting the image'right'.  Getting your image correct is a means of optimising the image whereby the image has no clipping in the highlights or the shadows and has a full range of contrast.  However this is not a rule and sometimes you can look at personal taste and how you would like your image to look.

This exercise focuses on processing an image to give different interpretations of the original shot - interpretations that are instinctively yours.  

This is the image I chose in its original state. I chose this image as I felt the subject matter and composition would offer interesting possibilities when it came to interpretations.  

Original

I experimented a lot with the presets in Lightroom and did some soft focus effects in Photoshop.  

These are the best images:

Creamtone

High Contrast

Duotone

Slightly bleached colour

Soft focus


My favourite images are creamtone, Duotone and the Slightly bleached colour.Creamtone and Duotone make the subject more prominent in the shot.  


Exercise: Managing colour

The aim of this exercise is to learn how to correct colour casts.  I had to find a couple of images that have a significant colour cast and correct it for both JPEG sand Raw.  One of these images has to include a surface that is known to be grey.  This can be a pavement, concrete, steel, clouds etc.

I will use Lightroom for this exercise.


Image with a grey object

Original image taken on a platform at Canary Wharf tube station.  There is significant colour cast from the fluorescent lighting.










JPEG

I adjusted the exposure in this image to open up the dark areas and used the grey dropper in Lightroom to sample the grey.  I chose an are of steel above the doorways to the trains.  I think a more realistic colour balance has been achieved as the original image had a yellow tinge to it.  


Raw
I adjusted the exposure in this image too and reduced the blacks.  I simply changed the preset to Fluorescent to adjust the white balance.  The yellowish hue has been reduced.  And the colour looks realistic.



Image 2: 

There is a blue hue in this image that make it look unrealistic and unnatural.  There is also very little grey.  






JPEG
I adjusted the exposure for this shot to brighten up the detail in the towers.  
I used the grey dropper to alter the white balance which I used gangway in the left under the tower.  The overall bluish hue has been reduced and the image looks more natural. 



Raw
I adjusted the exposure for this shot and used the grey dropper to adjust the white balance.  I played around with the presets but I didn't feel any of the looked natural.  I think it is best to custom your own white balance either by adjusting the sliders or using the grey dropper when the presets don't give the desired results. 


Exercise: Managing tone

This exercise looks at managing the tone in an image by setting the black and white points, adjusting midtones/brightness/contrast and any other local adjustments.

I have to do this to the JPEG image and the raw image and compare the two.

JPEG


I set he black and white points and then adjusted the midtones slightly.  I adjusted the exposure by -0.30.  I also cropped the image to remove distracting objects in the corners of the image.

Raw

With the raw image I set the black and white points, I adjusted the contrast to +30 (+5) and the brightness to +43 (-7).
I cropped the image to remove distracting objects in the corners and made local adjustments using the brush tool to the jackets the people were wearing to bring out more of the detail.

I experimented with the tone curve and found that any adjustments made the contrast using this tool would have to be very subtle.

From this exercise, I learnt how to optimise and make adjustments to JPEGs.  I usually only do this level of adjustments to raw files.

I think that the raw conversion is slightly better than the JPEG but this may not be down to the file format and the conversion alone but also to the fact that I am more comfortable working with Raw images.

Monitor calibration

I recently bought a new monitor as the one I had was too small and wasn't suitable for editing images.

In addition to purchasing the monitor I invested in a ColorMunki (Display) in order to calibrate my monitor more effectively.  

It is pretty straightforward to use once you install the software you simply follow the instructions on screen, measure the ambient light in the room and hang the Colormunki over your screen and it does the rest.  

I have to say I wasn't pleased with the results initially and after doing some research on Google I discovered that I needed to make some adjustments to the screen that I hadn't already done like changing the mode to AdobeRGB instead of leaving it as standard.  

When I ran the procedure again there was a vast improvement.  

I have noticed that the brightness of the screen is darker.  However the colours are clearer and more realistic.  However, I would have to say that I haven't noticed a huge difference like some users report.  Maybe that is because my monitor is new.  

The ColorMunki is set to measure the ambient light in the room every 60mins and adjust the monitor accordingly.  

I will be getting some prints of the images I will be submitting for my next assignment and I am hoping that that will give me a better idea of how beneficial the ColorMunki is.  


Optimising tone and colour

When we optimise tone and colour we make basic adjustments to our images.  These adjustments are usually quite small but they can make a big difference to the end result.

Looking at an image you shot on your computer screen opens your eyes to little problem areas that you may not have seen on the back of your camera when you took the shot.  For starters it is difficult to see any real colour cast on the LCD screen on your camera when in direct sunlight.  It is also hard to see the true effect of the shadow area in an image.

When you look at your images on your computer screen using software like Lightroom or Photoshop you can also use their tools to measure brightness, contrast and colour.

You should optimise your images as part of your editing workflow.  I started optimising my images a few years back when I started shooting in raw.  However, I found it a steep learning curve in knowing what minor adjustments to make.  For example, until I started this course I rarely considered adjusting the white balance.
I tended to focus on exposure, contrast and clarity to add some punch to my images.  Occasionally I would add some fill light or adjust the blacks slider.

My course notes suggest the following as a workflow for optimisation:

  • Set the contrast range
  • Adjust the brightness
  • Remove any overall unwanted colour cast
  • Make sure that whites and blacks are not tinged with colour
It is also important that your monitor is calibrated when looking at your images.  

Exercise: Raw

For this exercise I had to look at the advantages of processing raw images.  To do this I needed to compare the raw images I would convert to what the camera would produce using its own processor.  I set my camera to capture both Raw and JPEG (highest quality) and took 3 images.  I usually shoot Raw and JPEG (basic).

Daylight

JPEG file

When shooting the image I set the white balance to Daylight and shot in aperture mode.  I did not need to adjust the exposure.  



Raw file

I made the following adjustments to the raw file
  • I under-exposed by -0.41 to bring out more colour in the sky and the water
  • I adjusted the brightness slider to +29
  • I adjusted the tone curve by +9 for the highlights and +8 for the Darks. 
  • I added a sharpening overlay and set the camera mode to Camera Standard

Artificial light

Raw file
I made the following adjustments to the raw file
  • I increased exposure by +0.5
  • I adjusted the Blacks slider to 3
  • I altered the white balance to get a more realistic lighting for the interior
  • I altered the tone curve by +17 for highlights, +16 for lights and -15 for darks. 


JPEG file

I shot using Auto white balance but I further adjusted the colour in Lightroom using the grey dropper.